Saturday, March 24, 2018

Why people come to Lakeside, Mexico … and why they stay.


Lake Chapala, Jalisco, Mexico
Ask a hundred newcomers to Lakeside why they moved here and you’ll get a cluster of answers around weather, affordability, and friendliness, with a smattering of responses about health care, pace of life, culture and food. However, if you ask people why they stay here, you’ll get a slightly different range of answers.

Recently, I asked Dr. Todd Stong that question and his response sparked this article and series. He told me he came here seventeen years ago because his wife Vivian wanted a safer place for him to work. He is a professional engineer who has devoted the past twenty-three years to developing water projects for poor people in often remote villages. Prior to Lake Chapala, he was working in Africa under hazardous conditions.

Stong now works with 43 villages around the lake, serving about 300,000 people. His popular “State of the Lake” annual Open Circle address offers facts and figures about pollution in the lake (at it’s current level, it’s safe) and whether it’s okay to eat fish from the lake (yes). He works with local governments to build water treatment and water storage facilities so he is also a fountain of information on how government works (or doesn’t work) in Mexico.

Todd Stong at the La Zapatero community center in progress
A few days ago, I accompanied Stong to La Zapotera, a chayote-farming village perched high on the lake with stunning views, but almost impossible roads. He is supervising the construction of a community center in conjunction with villagers and the Lakeside Presbyterian Church which will be offering a feeding program for three hundred children. 
 
As we drove into the village, children swarmed around the van, shaking hands with everyone as if they were duly elected diplomats. We oohed and ahhed over the progress and freshly painted walls, and while Stong discussed plans and details with the village elders, I took endless pictures of the kids so they could see themselves in the LCD panel. Later as we shared peanut butter and jam sandwiches, Stong thrilled the kids and the adults as he passed out large photos from a previous trip.

Todd Stong passing out photos to the children
The next day, Stong and I talked more about all his projects, proposals, and ideas for bringing clean water to the villages. He is in his mid-70s and has great energy, but he could be taking life easier and working fewer hours. I asked him why he was working so hard and he explained that the work made him happy and he felt like he was helping people. “At this stage of life,” he said, “people often don’t feel needed and they start to slow down and feel like they don’t matter. I have become an advocate for the villages. I feel needed.”

La Zapotera Community Center in progress
Since I’ve been in Ajijic, i’ve been repeatedly astounded by what people have created here … orphanages and dog rescue programs, children’s art programs, student scholarship programs, community development centers, and one of the most recognized folk art festivals in all of Mexico. Wherever people see a need, and there are many to see, they go to work and do something about it. If someone wants to contribute something here, they just start doing it. The community benefits and they have the satisfaction of giving back and feeling needed while doing work they love.

Book about Neill James
Maybe it all started with Neill James. The adventurer/travel writer came to Ajijic in 1943 to recuperate from an accident and wound up moving here. She founded the first public library in Chapala, and then in Ajijic. She developed a water purifying system, dug the first deep water wells, helped install both electricity and telephone services, started a local weaving industry, and set up schools for local children’s education. With several other expats, she formed what would become The Lake Chapala Society (LCS) and willed her house and property to it. El Ojo del Lago named Neill James Ajijic's Woman of the Century.

People who move here seem to become infected with the spirit of Neill James. They may come for the weather, the affordable life style, and the culture, but they stay because they’ve made friends and found a way to enhance their own lives by exploring many interests they may not have had time for north of the border (NOB). Helping Lakeside be a better place to live, both for newcomers and locals, gives people a way to feel needed, satisfied ... happy.

This is the first of a series of stories about expats living lives that matter. If you have a story or know of one that needs to be shared, please email me at jwycoff at me dot com.
 
Joyce Wycoff, writer/photographer/artist lives in Ajijic, Mexico. More about her and this series at Mexico Stories ... expats living lives that matter.

Haciendas in Mexico ... where the past and future mix and mingle

Hacienda ruins
Hacienda tower with gun slits
In a time before backhoes and jackhammers, sewer systems, and electric lights, in a highland filled with wild cattle and endless vistas, hundreds of haciendas of the wealthy created a network of commerce and life across Mexico.  
Yesterday, Jim Cook led us on a walk back in time as we toured the ruins of four of those haciendas and tried to imagine a different world ... one where it required gun slits to protect your property.

When Jim and his wife Carole arrived in Ajijic almost eleven years ago, they began to document their travels and adventures in what has become an extremely popular and informative travel blog … Jim and Carole’s Mexico Adventure. Jim generously invites people to join him on his explorations, so we met early yesterday and headed out to explore a way of life that no longer exists.

From home to bank to ???
The ruins we toured were mostly two-to-three hundred years old: an eye-blink on the grand scale of history, and yet close enough to our own time to see the relentless forces of change. 
Two hundred years ago a wealthy land owner built a casa grande attracting the likes of revolutionary hero Miguel Hidalgo y Castillo on November 24,1810, only two months after his famous "Grito de Dolores" calling people to join him in the Mexican rebellion. 
The hacienda included housing for at least some of his workers, his own opera house (where Porfirio Diaz attended a performance), and a railway and station.
Plaque commemorating Hidalgo's visit
However, the owner's world and fortunes changed: his home became a bank, his chapel the town church, the opera house a library and event center, and the railroad station sits surrounded by chain link fencing, waiting for the next wave of change. Today, even the bank is gone yielding to progress as a central plaza develops. 
 
Abandoned railway station

As we walked through these ruins, though, I also saw the relentlessness of life: weeds and cactus growing on the tops of crumbling walls, cows and goats thriving in a feed lot of what probably used to be a grand garden, flowers blooming on a broken aqueduct that ran for at least a half-a-mile across the former lands of the hacienda, a pony suckling his mom while we watched.



Also, of course, what would any adventure be without a story? At one of the haciendas, we met a man who shared a name with a famous artist. He showed us some ancient artifacts he had found ... for sale, of course. A great deal of conversation ensued about their beauty and authenticity. It added to the richness of the day.
 
The oldest building we saw was a Hospital for Indios en Santa Cruz El Grande. It was apparently built in 1534 with an outdoor cross where large gatherings of native people were "converted." Services were ongoing when we arrived so we could see inside the structure but did not go in.

I have to wonder what I would see if two-, three- or four-hundred years from now, I could walk through my world of today. Which of today’s wonders will be repurposed into something I can’t even imagine today … and which will become simply ruins to make people of the future ponder the past?

“This, too, shall pass,” the philosophers say. Yesterday made me think we should add the words ... "but life goes on."

Thanks to Jim Cook and all the caretakers and key-carriers who generously opened their buildings and their days to share their history with our small caravan of explorers.
Stopping for a picnic along the way.

Jim’s itinerary for the day and the google map for where we would be exploring:

Hacienda La Campana- near Poncitlán. 19th century (possibly earlier) ruins at the edge of the small pueblo of the same name. Very interesting and photogenic site with beautiful countryside.

Hacienda San Jacinto - 18th century (at least) ruins in the small pueblo of same name. Also photogenic

Hacienda Atequiza - 17th century, located in town of same name. One of the largest and most famous of Guadalajara area haciendas. In 19th century, the owner built his own opera house and railroad station. Very interesting hacienda chapel is now the town church.
Hacienda Miraflores- Only a couple of miles from Atequiza. 18th century ruins with some very unusual 19th century additions.